Sewing Machine Parts - Singer Sewing Machine 4 Drawer

Singer Drawer Hanger Hooks*Attention Buyers of Multiple Auctions* If packaging will allow we will combine purchases and ship your items using the best option available through the USPS. Step 4 Move the thread upward at the bottom of the thread channel, ensuring that it catches in the spring. I also have a handy dandy quilt along page with links to each block as it comes out. He earned a patent for his design in 1846 and staged a man-vs-machine challenge, beating five seamstresses with work that was faster and in every way superior. When this happens, take your foot off the pedal and stop winding. If your machine does not have an auto-stop, you will need to keep a close eye on the bobbin to make sure you do not over-wind it.

Singer Drawer Hanger Hooks*Attention Buyers of Multiple Auctions* If packaging will allow we will combine purchases and ship your items using the best option available through the USPS. Please request or wait for a combined auction invoice sent by me before submitting your payment. Item Description This is a set of four used vintage Singer treadle sewing table drawer mounting brackets/hooks. These items appear to be in good usable condition with some paint loss and minor surface rust. These brackets include 8 used mounting screws. Free shipping to continental USA addresses only(no exceptions) Because of the size and/or weight of some items. I may not be able to combine packaging. International users are welcome to bid ONLY if you can provide a shipping address within the continental USA. E-mail with questions. Thanks for looking. Shipping Information Shipping is within the continental United States only. We DO NOT ship outside of the USA. NO EXCEPTIONS. Shipping times will vary depending on the area of the country shipped to and local delivery service. All items are shipped using the best option available through the USPS. Shipping times may take 3-14 days on most shipments. USPS Media Mail in some areas may be longer. We typically post feedback 1-3 days after payment receipt and this is a close indication of when your package(s) ships. Payment Options We accept Paypal as our only form of payment. NO EXCEPTIONS. All payments must be received within 8 days of auction close and must include your name. EBay user ID, item# item description and a"PayPal Confirmed" address. We adhere to eBay's"Non-Paying Bidder" policies and all non-paying bidders will be reported. Multiple Auction Shipping Shipping charges on multiple purchases may be combined if auctions end within 5 days of the first item you have won and if packaging of the items will allow. Do not send payment until all auctions you are bidding on have ended and we have sent an invoice or the combined shipping option will not apply. Return

How to Thread a Kenmore Mini Ultra Sewing Machine

Kenmore is a popular line of sewing machines, widely sold at Sears retail stores and online. The Kenmore Mini Ultra sewing machine is a lower priced model, favored by beginners. For the proper use of your Kenmore Mini Ultra, you must be able to thread your sewing machine correctly. This is a very easy process to learn. The Kenmore machines featuring 11206 in the model number include the Mini Ultra line of Kenmore sewing machines. Step 1 Place the sewing machine thread on the spool pin. This is located on the right side of your Kenmore Mini Ultra sewing machine, towards the back of the machine. Step 2 Pull your thread off the left-hand side of the spool. Clip the thread into the metal thread guide located towards the far left of the sewing machine. Hold the thread tightly as you begin the threading process. Step 3 Pull the thread downward into the right section of the thread channel, ensuring that the thread locks into the tension disc to the left of this channel. Step 4 Move the thread upward at the bottom of the thread channel, ensuring that it catches in the spring. Continue upward on the left portion of the thread channel. Step 5 Place the thread into the take-up lever, from right to left, when you reach the top left portion of the thread channel. Step 6 Draw the thread downward towards the needle. Step 7 Place the thread into the needle bar thread guide. This sits to the left of the shaft that holds your needle. Step 8 Clip the end of thread with a pair of sharp sewing scissors, and wet the end of the thread if desired. Step 9 Guide the thread tip into the eye of the sewing machine needle from front to back. Step 10 Pull the thread to the back of the needle, allowing 1 to 2 inches of slack.

US1544739A - Label-sewing machine - Google Patents

F Be it known that I, ALFRED GRIEB, a citizen of the United States, residingat Elizabeth, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Label-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a speci- -fication, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings. 4

Sewing for Beginners - Ultimate Sewing Machine Instructions # DoYouSew

I suggest that you gather a few fabric scraps to practice with. This is the best way to get a feel of how your machine runs and how each different stitch looks. In fact, it's really good to make a habit of this: before starting any new project or phase, test your fabric and machine settings. It will save you tons of trouble (and tons of fabric, to be honest). Now, it's also important to not pick just any kind of fabric that you can get your hands on.

17 Common Sewing Machine Problems and How To Solve Them

How annoying! You just spent ages getting that thread through the eye of the needle, and as soon as you go to start sewing, it unthreads itself. Luckily, there's an easy fix for this one. Before threading your machine, just make sure that the needle is at its highest point. You can do this by winding the handwheel toward yourself (always wind it toward yourself since this advances the machine—winding it backward can cause threads to tangle) while watching the needle. Some machines also have an "up/down" function that allows you to raise or lower the needle automatically to its highest or lowest point.

Sew Let's Quilt Along: Sewing Machine —

Sew Let's Quilt Along has started! It's a free, sewing-themed mystery quilt along, and I am so excited to share our first block with you. If you missed the intro, you can get all of the details here. I also have a handy dandy quilt along page with links to each block as it comes out. Our very first block is a sewing machine! I do not know about you, but I do not think there's any better way to kick off a sewing-themed quilt along than with a sewing machine. And Sandra did a fabulous job designing this one. She even included embroidered details to make it look more realistic, but I opted to leave those off of my block. Head on over to Sandra's post to get the pattern. All of our block patterns will be free until the quilt along ends on September 24, 2019. I always think choosing fabrics is one of the hardest parts of making a block, so I was excited when my choices came together pretty easily this time. I started with the machine and table fabrics. Since there's so much fabric in the machine, I wanted something with a lot of movement and variation of colors. Once I had that, I wanted a lighter fabric for the panel. From there, it was easy to find fabrics that went with the rest. Since the spools are so small, I was able to use some of my extra tiny scraps!

The Many, Many Designs of the Sewing Machine

After failing to build a machine that reproduced his wife's hand motions, Howe scrapped the design and started again; this time, he inadvertently invented a hand-cranked machine almost identical to Hunt's. He earned a patent for his design in 1846 and staged a man-vs-machine challenge, beating five seamstresses with work that was faster and in every way superior. Yet the machine was still seen as somewhat scandalous, and Howe failed to attract any buyers or investors. Undeterred, he continued to improve his machine.

Restoration of a 1925 Vintage Singer Model 66 “Red Eye” Sewing Machine

Now all of the mechanical parts have been cleaned and restored, the cosmetic work can begin. As I mentioned before I started the restoration, red eye's have ornate and intricate decals. I do not want to clean them aggressively. I am going to use GoJo and apply it with my finger to clean the surface. I do not plan to do any aggressive polishing on this machine, so it will retain it's vintage surface prior to being stabilized with a new shellac layer.

Best Sewing Machine Features for Better Quilting

Over my 20 years of teaching machine quilting, I've seen students with every make and model of sewing machine in my classes, and I've come to realize that there are several features on sewing machines that can really make or break the success of the quilter. It's also common for my students to ask me about which features they should shop for when purchasing a new sewing machine, so here are some important features to keep in mind when you are in the market for a new machine.

10 Best Juki – Perfect for Home Workers

JUKI DNU-1541 is another masterpiece introduced by world-leading sewing machine producers. It is a rough-and-tough industrial sewing machine with a distinctive variety of features. Does this mean that home-users cannot use this machine? Well, not really. Although this machine was produced with hard industrial mechanics and structure, it is more than perfect users at home. Because it is an industrially produced machine, it is very heavy, up to 80 pounds: a bummer if you need movability. It is another reason why the table and structure might have minor scratches and unnoticeable dents, but nothing that home-users need to worry about. The elegant set of features provides great value to the price of JUKI DNU-1541.

History of sewing and sewing machines

Perhaps all the essentials of a modern machine came together in early 1844 when englishman john fisher invented a machine which although designed for the production of lace, was essentially a working sewing machine. probably because of miss-filing at the patent office, this invention was overlooked during the long legal arguments between singer and howe as to the origins of the sewing machine.

The BEST Cylinder Arm Industrial Sewing Machine Ever & The Wonderful People Who Sold It To Me

PfitzSewSwell has been growing like a weed recently! I am so proud of my new website and all-original lineup of leather goods from which clients can pick and choose. The ten colors of leather can be mixed and matched throughout the collection so you are sure to create a bag or wallet which truly represents you! I am extremely grateful for all the new business I've received and am excited to see what the future has in store.

NMSU: Selecting an Overlock Sewing Machine

The major concern for prospective owners is the threading process. Check to be certain the machine has a coded threading—colors, symbols, or numbers may be used. The thread stand should have adaptors for the use of cones or spools of thread. Check the use and care manual for threading instructions.

Antique Singer Sewing Machine Value

If you are insuring your sewing machine or need an official value for another purpose, you will need to have your Singer appraised by a local appraisal company. However, these sources can help you estimate the value to satisfy your own curiosity or set a reasonable sales price for your machine.

Sewing Machines –

My favorite Sewing Machine brand is Janome. I own the MC6600. This is one fully loaded workhorse of a machine! However, most ladies do not need so much sewing muscle, so the model I recommend the most often is the Janome DC2011. When you start comparing features and prices, you are going to find that, compared to other brands, Janome gives you a lot more bang for your buck. Pretty much any Janome you get will be a good machine.

Basics: Threading Your Sewing Machine | Yesterday's Thimble

On many machines, the bobbin will have an auto-stop feature. It senses when the bobbin is full and will stutter to a halt. When this happens, take your foot off the pedal and stop winding. If your machine does not have an auto-stop, you will need to keep a close eye on the bobbin to make sure you do not over-wind it.

Oiling your vintage Singer – part 1

Let's start with the oil. Do not use 3-in-1 oil. You need good quality sewing machine oil, not 3-in-1 oil. Proper sewing machine oil is very thin/runny stuff indeed, and you get it online or from your friendly local sewing shop if you are fortunate enough to still have one. They wo not sell 3-in-1 oil, which is a Good Thing, because you do not want 3-in-1 oil. Or olive oil, as was used on the last 66K we bought. Not WD40 either, or anything which might get used on a car, motorbike or boat, like 3-in-1 oil. That is not what you want. Despite what it says on the tin, 3-in-1 oil is not ideal for sewing machines. Far from it. It is evil. If you do use 3-in-1 oil, horrible things will happen to your sewing machine, the birds will stop singing and you will never win the lottery.

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How Sewing Machines Work | Howstuffworks
­Without the sewing machine, the world would be a very different place. Like the automobile, the cotton gin and countless other innovations from the past 300 years, the sewing machine takes something time-consuming and laborious and makes it fast and easy. With the invention of the mechanized sewing machine, manufacturers could suddenly produce piles of high-quality clothing at minimal expense. Because of this technology, the vast majority of people in the world can now afford the sort of sturdy, finely-stitched clothes that were a luxury only 200 years ago.In this article, we'll take look at the remarkable machine that makes all of this possible. As it turns out, the automated stitching mechanism at the heart of a sewing machine is incredibly simple, though the machinery that drives it is fairly elaborate, relying on an assembly of gears, pulleys and motors to function properly. When you get down to it, the sewing machine is among the most elegant and ingenious tools ever created.Sewing machines are something like cars: There are hundreds of models on the market, and they vary considerably in price and performance. At the low-end of the scale, there are conventional no-frills electric designs, ideal for occasional home use; at the high-end, there are sophisticated electronic machines that hook up to a computer. Textile companies have many machines to choose from, including streamlined models specifically designed to sew one particular product.But just like cars, most sewing machines are built around one basic idea. Where the heart of a car is the internal combustion engine, the heart of a sewing machine is the loop stitching system.­
Felted Slipper Resuscitation
This Felted Slipper Resuscitation project was the result of an exchange/barter arrangement I made to acquire an old washboard (to be used for another felting project)! The techniques I use in this repair, can be applied to many other felting repair projects. Equipment list:Material List:One bite at a time, these well loved slippers were full of holes...Insert a piece of upholstery foam that fits snugly inside your slipper, to provide support for your felting repair. The foam will need to be large enough to support all edges of the hole with a good border. Cut a piece of wool felt (real wool) slightly larger than the hole you are repairing. I used felted wool that I had wet felted using some of the roving, but you could also use woven wool fabric like stroud. This step may not be necessary, but adding a pre-felted or woven wool layer between the roving layers, should add extra strength in high wear areas. Card the roving. Lay a handful of roving on one brush, and then using the other brush to pull it in the opposite direction. This will help you to clean up and align the fibres. Pull small amounts of the carded roving off the brush, and lay them side by side in one direction across the hole to create a light layer of roving. Add another thin layer of roving perpendicular to the first layer, and then a third layer in the first direction. Layering the wool helps you create a stronger, more even and solid bond when felted.Take the felting needle (or needles) firmly in your hand and push it through the roving into the foam to engage and hook the wool fibres together. Repeat this motion hundreds of times, being sure to work the fibres well into the edges of your repair. Keep the motion of the needle up and down (not prying off to the side) to minimize breakage...Warning: Felting needles are sharp! and they have tiny little barbs scattered along their length. Watch where your fingers are, as it is very easy to jab yourself...Once the needle felting is starting to hold the roving together, add your thin wool patch, centering it over where the hole was, and then add more roving, using roving colours that match the outside of your project. In my case anything goes! Repeatedly push the felting needle (or needles) through the wool fibres into the foam block until you feel the fibres felting solidly together, and then, keep going a bit longer and then a bit longer again. Add more roving layers if the patch seems too thin. Try to build the repair area up to the same thickness as the surrounding felt, and take care to make the edges as even as possible. This may take you a while!Once you are satisfied with your first patch, move on to the next hole, you will find that your technique keeps improving... When you are evening out your patch, you may occasionally need to add more roving on the inside.I think you get the idea! Fix all the holes in the same way, making sure that your edges are even and the patches are the same thickness as the felt around them, so you will not feel the patches when you wear them. Lay your leather on the floor. Using a chalk pencil, trace a line around the bottom outside edge of your slipper onto your leather and cut it out. Place this insole on another piece of leather and trace out the second sole. Be sure to place like sides together, (smooth against smooth). Cut out your second sole. To pre-make stitch holes in the leather, put a leather needle in your sewing machine (don't thread it), set the stitch length to about 1/4" and without using thread, 'sew' along the outside edge of both soles, a 1/4" in from the edge. This magically creates a line of small, evenly spaced holes, that make it so, so, much easier to hand sew the leather soles to the bottom of your slippers. Pin the leather soles in position on the bottom of your slippers. I kept the rough (suede) side facing out, to add a bit more traction.Thread your needle with your button hole thread, gut or other strong thread, tie a big knot in the end and get ready to sew. You will need your thimble and pliers. Those little pliers will become your best friend. Use them to gently pull the needle through the leather when it gets stuck.Start with the thread between the sole and the slipper to hide your knot, and then use a wrapping stitch to sew on the sole. Go down through the guide hole in the leather, grab a good bit of felt and come back up through the felt emerging close to and beside the sole. Move on to the next hole and repeat this, working your way around the outside of the sole. Regularly check the position of the sole as you go. Tie off your thread when you get to the end and tuck the knot out of sight. Take a deep breath, pat yourself on the back, and then get started on the second sole!Lay down two layers of wool duffel on the floor. Stand on your fabric and trace around your foot with the chalk pencil. Pin the two layers of fabric together and cut out a double layered insole. Repeat for the other foot. Using a serger or sewing machine, sew or serge around the outside edges of the insoles, to bind the two layers together (alternatively, you can sew them together by hand). Adding insoles to your slippers will make them more comfortable and increase their (new) life.Slip in your insoles, sit back and admire your hard work. Better yet, put on those newly resuscitated slippers and kick up your heels!
Robots Are the New Seamstresses
Decry it as sweatshop labor or praise it as "an escalator out of poverty," low-wage sewing in faraway lands is going the way of the typing pool. The plummeting cost of industrial robots and the electronic cameras used for machine vision mean that serious automation is coming to even the cheapest sewn products.A high-profile example is the "SpeedFactory" that Adidas recently unveiled in southern Germany. Robots there will start turning out shoes next year, and a similar U.S. plant is in the works. The aim is to increase flexibility and reduce inventories by bringing production closer to the market.With less fanfare, robots are already sewing bath towels and drapery pleats, yoga pants and ironing board covers. Using a computer-controlled system from Jeanologia, based in Valencia, Spain, jeans makers can substitute lasers for guys with sandpaper to distress their wares. The offending dye vanishes in a poof of blue smoke."Last year there were more than 70 different types of sewn products that we implemented automation and automated devices into," says Frank Henderson, CEO of Henderson Sewing Machine Co. in Andalusia, Alabama, citing examples ranging from dog collars to bulletproof vests. "There's more than you can even think about."At the recent TexProcess Americas trade show in Atlanta, Henderson shepherded international guests around the systems on display in his substantial booth. Machines sewed pockets on jeans and interfacing on collars, assembled elastic for underwear waistbands and placed and stitched Velcro fasteners. Fed by a single human operator, each did the work of several seamstresses - faster and more precisely.With its integration of machines and people from multiple nations, the scene suggested a more complicated and fluid production story than the popular tales of diabolical Chinese or soulless robots out to displace hard-working Americans. The us-versus-them world of Donald Trump doesn't have room for a Henderson Sewing attachment to a Japanese-made Juki sewing machine installed in a Mexican factory.More automation does mean more sewing in the U.S. and other developed countries. But contrary to the dreams of on-shoring cheerleaders, whether economic nationalists or pro-union fantasists, robot sewing doesn't imply a return to mass industrial employment any more than high-yield seeds mean we'll all be farmers again. Automated sewing generates only a few more, and higher-paid, local jobs. It's about increasing productivity and consumer value, not putting more people to work.At the front of the booth, a two-armed Baxter model from Boston-based Rethink Robotics replaced the operator altogether, feeding a two-headed sewing machine without human intervention. "That's $25,000," Henderson told his guests. "It doesn't get sick, doesn't take vacation." With prices like that, robots are no longer limited to making high-value items like automobiles.Sewn-product makers are beginning to adopt "autonomous work cells," where machines do all the work. In an interview, Henderson recounts a project for a company that sews a non-apparel product often customized with logos. The client used to employ 27 people in China, shipping 9.5 million units to the U.S. each year. Transportation could take upwards of nine months and if the company picked colors that turned out to be unpopular, it was stuck. To bring manufacturing closer to customers, six vendors including Henderson Sewing collaborated to create a new U.S.-based system that starts with the customer entering the order online and ends with the box loaded onto a truck the next day."We cut a product, screen-printed it, flash-dried it, loaded it on to a power and free track, loaded it into 10 autonomous work cells - sewing machines - sewed the product, inverted it, packed it into boxes, depending on the order size, of small, medium, or large, taped the box, sealed the box, put the bar code on it and put it in a truck, says Henderson. "And no human touched it."Just three workers - one per shift - handle the entire process.The investment, Henderson says, paid for itself in less than 10 months, mostly by cutting inventory costs, and the client has since replicated the system in seven other locations around the globe.Although sewing automation does reduce head counts, cutting labor costs isn't the primary goal."Why would I automate something that's already cheap anyway?" asks K.P. Reddy, the CEO of Softwear Automation, an Atlanta-based startup that uses machine vision to drive precision sewing systems. Rather, automation promises quicker turnaround, lower transit costs and greater precision. That's good news for consumers and retailers, bad news for Bangladesh. The jobs at risk are the low-skilled, repetitive tasks that have been the way out of poverty for two centuries. That road may be about to close.Softwear Automation's software tracks exact needle placement, using the thread grid and surface textures to create a topographic map of the fabric. "We're at half-a-millimeter accuracy," says Reddy. "Most humans can't even contemplate what that looks like. We can do things like sew a perfect circle, which a human can't do."Equally important, it can do so at a price that promises a payback in two years, thanks to off-the-shelf cameras that cost just hundreds of dollars, compared to thousands only a few years ago. Chalk that up to the spillover effects of ubiquitous cell phone cameras.Softwear Automation assumed its primary customers would be U.S. apparel makers. Instead, it found its immediate market in home goods - "curtains, towels, bath rugs, all the flat things that go into homes" - and turned to apparel only in the past three months. It's also heard from surprisingly eager foreign contract manufacturers.Chinese companies in particular worry about impending labor shortages, as young workers flee the villages where the factories are located. "They all want to live in the cities," says Reddy. "So when I talk to these multibillion-dollar companies, they say, 'Look, we're good for the next 10 years, and then there's no talent. In the eleventh year, there's no one here.'" They want to start planning now.The story echoes the one Frank Henderson tells, about how in the late 1980s textile jobs began leaving the South for foreign plants because manufacturers couldn't find enough local workers. "In order to grow their business they had to move offshore," he says. In our collective nostalgia, we forget how boring, regimented, and antisocial manufacturing jobs tend to be. As soon as people get a little financial security, they tend to opt for more flexibility, variety, and conversation. Robots, on the other hand, never get bored.To contact the author of this story: Virginia Postrel at To contact the editor responsible for this story: Jonathan Landman at
Why Won't My Sewing Needle Catch the Bobbin Thread?
Sewing machines can be frustrating beasts when they don't work right. The ingenious machine uses two threads locked together through the fabric to create stitches. For the machine to work correctly, the threaded needle passes through the throat plate and grabs the thread from the bobbin case to lock the stitch against the fabric. Make certain the needle is installed with its flat side facing the back of its holder. Thread the needle and open the shuttle cover and pull out the bobbin to see if it is inserted in the correct direction in the shuttle and case. Look to see if thread runs beneath the little flap that adjusts the tension on the bobbin before putting it back. Follow the upper thread to make certain it passes freely through all the guides and the tension disks appropriately. Tug on the bobbin thread so that the thread is about 2 inches long. With the presser foot up and the needle properly threaded, lightly turn the hand wheel toward you as you keep hold of the needle thread to allow it to catch the bobbin thread and bring it up above the throat plate. Both threads must be atop the throat plate to begin sewing.. To access this area, remove the bobbin shuttle from the machine, following the instructions for your specific machine, as each model may be different. With the bobbin case, bobbin and shuttle removed, remove all the lint, thread pieces and fabric debris from inside this area. Look up under the backside of the feed dogs -- the series of teeth atop the throat plate -- and pull out any lint or debris caught there. Reassemble the bobbin into the shuttle case and place both back into the machine. Rethread and try again. The bobbin case has a little inverted tooth that catches the upper thread from the needle and pulls it in a circle to lock it and create the stitch. If the tension on the bobbin or the thread through the needle is too tight, it prevents a smooth unrolling of the thread from the bobbin or the spool, and either one or both break. Check your owner's manual to adjust both the upper and lower thread tensions correctly. . Once the machine timing is off, nothing you do can fix the machine; instead, it requires a trip to a sewing machine technician, mechanic or professional. As with other machines that have belts and gears, sewing machines require routine maintenance and oiling or periodic part replacement.
Living the Simple Life in Northern Tasmania
Mathew Simms lives a very simple life in Deloraine in a single room with a bed, oak dresser, a table and a stove and he said he would not have it any other way.The room is dotted with wooden dolls and paintings all made by Mr Simms, revealing what he calls the latest chapter of his life and while this might not continue, his simplistic way of life will."I have lived very much an Arcadian life and it's not put on; I would say it's intrinsic to who I am," Mr Simms said."There'll be some changes but that thread I imagine will still be there because that's always been through my life."Making the wooden dolls is something Mr Simms taught himself how to do and this is how he prefers to learn a new skill."I've enjoyed being a wooden dollmaker; collecting pieces of wood, finding the cloth, sewing them up on a little hand-sewing machine and then taking them to the market," Mr Simms said."The wooden dolls appeal to me because they are very representative of what I see as life's pleasantries."They are a very appealing size, they are related to a nurturing part of our lives and there's many facets or parts to actually making them."According to Mr Simms, the wooden dolls are not all the same and each time he carves a piece of timber to add to his collection, it forms a personality which he can then work with."The artistry shows by making each piece as a piece and making the clothes to match that character of that person because that person has developed as I've made them," Mr Simms said."I want to connect with that as I go along rather than become like a mechanic process."There are also a number of portrait-style paintings on display around the room and Mr Simms said they are an extension of the dolls and this is what he will now focus on."They're very like the dolls in the atmosphere; they're like little wooden people in a landscape environment."Mr Simms does not receive any government benefits and his sole income relies on selling the dolls and paintings at the Evandale market.Describing his life like a book, Mr Simms said he feels like he goes through chapters and he is not keen to talk or think about the future and what might happen."I've noticed that chapters come about anyway, I doubt whether I'll be here in this room in two years time because there will be other things to do in life," Mr Simms said.It would be fair to say Mr Simms lives a life with almost no direction and forward planning but as he said, he simply does what he wants."A lot of the things I've done during my life, I haven't really cared who is around just as long as I'm able to do what I want to do," Mr Simms said.
Designing and Creating a Leather Wallet
Designing and creating a leather wallet is great fun. You need specific equipment, materials and your creativity. Once you have the above you will be able to produce many wallets which are the same or have their own individual uniqueness. And remember you can keep adding to the equipment to give variable flavour to your collection.anything labelled * is optionalThe following is a list of equipment and materials you will need.Equipment: metal ruler, woodblock, craft knife, dome or velcro stamps for the leather (your choice from range in shops), scissors sponge*, or paint brush*, leather hole punch or sewing machine suitable for leatherMaterials: hard natural leather (to stamp designs), soft leather for inside thonging (thin strips of leather)*, dyes*, leather polish*Follow these Instructions 1. Planning: There are 2 sections to plan. You will need to draw several designs for each section and then choose the best one to carry on with.a. Outside shape and size eg a rectangle 20cm by 9 cm Inside shapes, sizes for money ( notes, change), credit cards compartments etcb. Design feature to put on the outside of the hard leather. The design is limited to the tools (eg stamps) and colour dyes you have. Try them out on a sample piece of leather first.2. Creating Pattern Pieces: using the chosen design from 1a Measure accurately the required dimensions of each piece, using a pencil, ruler and paper, label pieces and cut out.3. Cutting Out Leather: For each piece place leather on woodblock and pattern piece on the leather. Draw around piece with a pencil and cut out using a metal ruler and craft knife.4. Punching Holes: * To join pieces together you can use a suitable sewing machine or with use of thonging threaded through holes. If you choose thonging the holes need to be punched out now. Measure and mark hole position with a dot eg at 0.5cm intervals. Create holes using hole punch. Please note that all outside edges of outside and inside pieces will need the holes plus possibly the purse piece and credit card type pieces.5. Design feature: on outside hard leather piece. Draw picture eg flower, house, name or mark places lightly where the stamps are going to go. Create the design using leather on woodblock, hammer and stamps. Practise your effects on a sample piece of leather first. *Dye leather using sponge or paint brush and instructions on dye container. One or several colours can be used. *Polish leather when dye is dried. Please note that thonging can be dyed if you purchase a light colour and want a different colour.6. Domes or velcro: Apply these now to places like fastening the purse for coins shut and wallet shut. domes: follow instructions given - you may need special tools velcro: you will need a sewing machine which sews leather7. Construction:The pieces now need to be put together. Use sewing machine or thonging:- to join inside sections use a straight "stitch" by going through one side and back through the next hole from the other side. - for the edge of wallet thread thonging through all holes using a spiral effect ie keep threading through the holes from one side only and curve thonging over the edge. So you do not see ends please thread thonging from inside first and finish on the inside. Tidy ends by threading under a few stitches.You now have a finished product to keep, give away or sell. And you have the tools to create more. This is a great way to create gifts for yourself, family and friends.You never know, you could have an enjoyable 'at home business ' earning a little bit of extra income in your spare time. So have fun designing and creating your unique wallets.
Paging Dr. Conner: Meet the 20-year-old Who Runs a Sneaker ...
Whether it's restorations or customizations, Eric Conner'sSneaker Hospitaltakes your old and worn out shoes and gives them new life. The 20-year-old sneakerhead is a one-person band: He does all of his work himself from a spare bedroom in his parent's home in Brooklyn, NY.Visiting his workspace is like entering a Geppetto's workshop for sneakers. Vintage sewing machines, shoes and designer fabric swatches from the likes of Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and other luxury labels line the small bedroom.Conner buys bags, clothes and other items from the brands' official stores as well as reputable consignment shops and then repurposes the fabric to make his creations, which can range from $250 to more than $1,500.Conner, who goes by econn_customson Instagram, knew he wanted to customize shoes for a living since he was in high school. He remembers some of his teachers at Fort Hamilton High School in Brooklyn thinking he was a bit misguided."They thought I was crazy when I said I wanted to do this for a living," he said.The main tool of Conner's trade is a vintage Singer Patcher sewing machine, which he bought from a Queen's tailor for around $1,400. Starting a business customizing shoes was tough for the Brooklyn native. Conner faced a huge hurdle at the onset — he didn't know how to sew — so he taught himself."No one taught me how to thread a needle or thread a machine, so I learned that … then I had to learn how to manage my time with making the sneakers and managing orders," he said.Conner says that he currently has over 150 outstanding orders — and since everything is handmade, time is an essential ingredient. The Sneaker Hospital founder says he fills about 8-10 orders a month and that it takes about 4 to 6 weeks to complete an order.Conner has some pretty impressive clientele. Musicians 2 Chainz and Justin Timberlake, whose Jordan retro 3's were made to commemorate the star selling out three consecutive shows at New York's Madison Square Garden.Though it's called the Sneaker Hospital, Conner does more than restore sneakers. He also creates custom Apple AirPod cases, Apple Watch bands and even hockey masks using the same designer material that he uses to make his customized sneakers. Conner is also branching out and starting to collaborate with other companies. California cannabis companyGasHouserecently commissioned him to create lighter cases.When Conner isn't making custom kicks, he's studying entrepreneurship and design at Baruch College in New York City.Reggie Wade is a writer for Yahoo Finance. Follow him on Twitter at @ReggieWade.Follow Yahoo Finance on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Flipboard,LinkedIn, and reddit.Read more from Reggie:Sneakers are now an emerging alternative asset class: CowenIn-N-Out Burger is suing PumaFoot Locker makes $100M bet on popular online sneaker marketplace GOATThe top 5 bestselling retro sneakers according to GOATHow Nike took over the NBA sneaker game
How to Make a Drawstring Fabric Bag
For the last couple of years, I've made fabric bags to wrap all our presents in. Usually, it was just a flat bag with a drawstring casing at the top. But I wasn't really happy with them. I like the ones with a ruffle above above the drawstring, but the instructions felt too involved. While making one of the flat bags the other day, I came up with a design that I really like. I hope you like it too.Start out with the box that you want to wrap.First, measure the box, both around the sides (S), and around from top to bottom (T). Write those measurements down. The measurements don't have to be really precise. You can round up to the next inch, and it won't affect much. You're going to need some ease anyway.Now for the math. The fabric will wrap around the bottom, and you'll be making two side seams.First the width. Now since you need two side seams (to have ribbons to pull to both sides, you'll take the S measurement and cut it in half (S/2), then add seams plus a little ease, so that you can get the box into the bag. I tend to be generous, so (S/2) 2" for the width.Next the length. Start with the T measurement. You'll also need about two times the size of what ever ribbon you'll be using as ties. I used 1/4" ribbon I had sitting around, but I don't like to go less than 1" on the drawstring, for looks and usability, so I added 2" on both edges (2" x 2). Plus twice a nice ruffle on the top. The bigger the box, the bigger the ruffle needs to be to look good. I thought a 4" ruffle would look good (4" x 2) And, you'll need that ease as well, plus some to finish the edge...about 2" again. So T (2 x ribbon width)(2 x ruffle height)2"(easetop edge finish).As you can barely make out in the picture above, my box was 31" around (S) by 23" top to bottom (T). So my formula was (31" / 2) 2" = 17.5" for the width, and 23" (2 x 1") (2 x 4") 2" = 23.5" for the length. So I needed a piece of fabric that was 17.5" x 23.5".To check, you can lay out the fabric, and fold the fabric around it, to make sure you haven't missed any thing. I found a piece that was a bit bigger in both directions, and just used that.Use scissors, a rotary cutter, a sharp rock, you know, what ever you have handy.Here, you're going to use what ever sewing method works for you, to sew the basic bag shape. If you measured like I did, you will need to sew two side seams and the bottom seam. I have a serger, so I used that. But you can just as easily use your regular sewing machine, and either go back and either pink or zig-zag the edges.I used my serger to do a narrow rolled hem. You can do the same on either a serger, or your regular sewing machine, or fold down a narrow 1/4" hem (fold twice, pressing, for best results) and sew it down. Your choice.Remember how tall you wanted the ruffle, and how I said you were going to use twice the width of your ribbon? Add those together, and fold over that much of a cuff, wrong sides together. Since my ruffle is 4" and I said 1" minimum for ribbon, I measured down 6" (i.e. 4" 2x1").Mark it if you want to, or just pin as you go. I placed my pins near the folded edge. Make sure you only pin through two layers of fabric, not four! I just lifted the fabric to either side of my ruler, and pinned it. Like I said, I kind of wing it. If you're making a wide bag, slide the ruler down, and repeat as necessary.Flip it over, and do the same thing to the other side.Then flatten the sides, so you can pin the side seam. Now the only tricky part here is the side seam. You want to try and make sure that the seam doesn't twist...and mine ALWAYS want to. So open up the cuff till you can see the seam and make sure it's not twisted before pinning it.Now that you have it pinned, you can sew the first seam of the casing. Remember how we added twice the width of your ribbon? Make your seam about 1/8"-1/4" wider than that, so that your ribbon will fit, even after you finish the casing. My ribbon was only 1/4", so 1" works fine for my bag.You want to reinforce stitch across the side seam, so when you sew past it, reverse back across it, and then continue sewing. Or if you forget (like I kept doing), just go back and sew over it again. Trim all your threads when you get done.So now you have a bag with a nice finished top edge, and a flange in the middle.Fold that flange up. Pin it if you like, or just hold it down while you top stitch near the edge. (Wish I'd chosen less busy fabric for this.)You can skip this step if you're in a hurry, or just don't care. The bag will still work fine, and serve you for many years to come! But squaring the bottom only requires two short seams, and makes it look much better, and stand up a bit better.First you want to start with the corner between your bottom seam and side seam. Turn the bag inside out, and flatten the corner so that the bottom and side seams are touching. Do the same for the other side, and lay it out so that the bottom seam is up.I know there are better explanations of how to fold it, but you can see how the corner is folded so that bottom seam is running across the middle of the folded corner. It will look kind of like dog ears.After you have the bag folded and laid out (the top of the bag gets folded out to the side out of the way), and you've gotten your box on there, move the box out toward the corner until both box corners almost, but don't quite touch the folded edge of the fabric. Draw a line along the box, across the corner dog ear. That's your stitching line. If you stitch there, the box bottom will fit nicely into the bottom of the bag with a little ease. Pin if you like.Move the box and repeat on the other corner of the bag. Now if you move the box into the center, you can make sure that your bag won't try to squeeze your box.Sew along both of your marked seam lines. Cut off the dog ears. Now go back and pink or zig-zag the finished seams. I used my serger.The hard part is over, and you're almost done. You deserve it!Remember where you reinforced the stitching across the side seams when you sewed the casing? Good, because it will keep your side seam from unraveling after this step.From the front, using a seam ripper, or a pair of small embroidery scissors, clip the seam in the casing, so that you'll be able to slide your ribbon through it.Do the same for the other side seam of the bag.If you're like me, even though you measured everything, the idea of measuring the ribbon is just soul deadening. So lay your bag down flat. Unroll your ribbon and lay it doubled across the bag where the casing it. Add enough to both ends to make it pretty and so that the ribbon doesn't get lost in the casing.Ok, Ok, Measure the width of bag, and multiple x two. Add length of ribbon tail x two. Six inches is always a good minimum. (width x 2) (6" x 2). Happy?Cut two this length.I have this really cool, long, red plastic bodkin that threads through the casing, and then you thread your ribbon through a big eye on the end, and pull the ribbon through. I LOVE it! You can always use a safety pin on the end of the ribbon to thread the ribbon.Thread one of the ribbons so the ends hang out one side. Thread the other ribbon so the ends hang out the other side.Tie the ends of the ribbon into knots so they won't easily pull back through the casing. Or you could tie little beads or jingle balls on the ends if you like.You're done!!!! Drop the box into the bag, pull the ribbon tight, and tie a bow. Isn't that gorgeous!Now go finish that wine.One of the other great things about this bag, is you can make them to fit odd sized presents...especially if you're in a hurry and you don't have a box to fit it! You work the same method, just measuring around the largest part of the odd size present, and then again around the tallest part.
Apron of Holding
Your first piece of material to be cut is 29" x 30", this will allow 2" of material to fold in on itself twice to the make the seams on the edge. See the apron pattern.bmp picture. The inner curves at the top of the apron can either be drawn in by hand, use a compass or do as I did. Look for something round you can trace. The diameter of the circle needs to be almost 12" across; oddly enough what worked perfectly for me was a large wall clock. The 2" seam I drew in be hand though, this doesn't need to be accurate as its just a folded in edge.The inner curves are the part you are going to have the most trouble with, but that is why you have your iron heated up and ready to go.I folded the straight sides over first to produce the seams, really I should have started with the curves first. So lets pretend I did…Some people make little slits in the side to ease the fold, but its quite a broad curve so opted not too. Start folding over material bits at a time from one end to the other. As you go, hit it with the tip of the iron and soon the curve will fall in line. Your folding over about an inch of material. Then start all over again folding it in over itself, once again ironing it in place to lock in the fold.Next fold over all your straight edges in inch, iron, fold over another inch and finish ironing it flat.Depending on how you plan on feeding the material into your sewing machine, pin the material so that the head of the pin is facing you. That way as the foot base comes close to a pin, you can sew right up to the last ½ an inch, before sliding the pin out of the material towards you. Don't make the mistake I made. I had all the pins facing the wrong way. Here I start happily feeding the material into the machine, when before I knew it, I was going to have to take the first pin out – Whoops! The head was 1/8 of an inch from the base of the sewing machine foot. What a pain… Learn from my newbie mistakes!I love the look of the brass name plate against the chocolate brown material; this is a simple step that allows changes down the road.Hopefully you will know when to stop, sometimes I don't. I thought too many people might not get the "HOLDING" in the brass name plate, so I though I would spell it out for them, literally. Learn to pause when finishing off a job, step back and think before doing. Sometimes less really is more!First I drew on the apron the words (Apron of) right before the HOLDING badge, to spell out (Apron of HOLDING) Foolishly I used metallic silver pen, thinking it would stand out nicely when I was ready to darn over top of it.I then set the sewing machines zigzag function to the widest setting, set the stitch distance to zero and started darning over the silver ink. It went fairly well considering the crappy machine I was using. I plugged away at it for ten minutes and finished the word (Apron). Then I stood back and realized it was just too much, I became caught up in the idea of it, not whether it would look good or not. Curses!!!Now to fix it you would think, oh well. Just slit the threads and pull out the stitches, except I forgot about the silver ink AAAGH! So I did what I had to, cut a piece of material large enough to cover it, gave it some seams and sewed it in place. It looks ok, and others just thought it was part of the design. Sadly I know the truth.Now if you want to go green, you've skipped on the towel dispenser. Simple take corners of towels or rags and thread them through one of the D-rings on the side of the hip belt. If you want to make it look like a professional rag (that sounds odd) then buy your self a grommet kit. They are sold at hardware stores or often found at dollar stores. It consists of 2 brass rings and a striking dye. Open up the striking dye and put on the cutting groove one of the rings. Place a corner of the towel/rag over this followed by the other brass ring. Close the other side of the striking dye over top of this ring and smack it with a hammer. This will simultaneously cut out the center of the towel/rag and crimp both rings together. That's it, clip a carbine through it and clip to the side of your hip belt. SO PROFESSIONAL, LOLThe following 2 recipes are based on those found on the "David Suzuki Foundation" website, click the link below to go directly to it and see additional recipes. tweaked the first one, purely for scent, but otherwise it maintains its green nature just like the second recipe. The last 2 are variations of ones found all over the internet that I have add my own. Now just because a cleaner is all natural still doesn't mean its safe to spray into your eyes. Sure it wouldn't hurt you long term, but would you be happy squirting vinegar in your eye? OW, I don't think so. Some of the recipes use trace amounts of alcohol, definitely not good for your eyes!Mysterious Universal Solvent – H2O, pH neutral cleanerEveryone getting in on the act, who knew a photo shoot could be such fun! More photo's to be added daily as others want to get in on the act!Watch Chancey fix the robo fish for the Kitimat Museum! Thank goodness she's wearing The APRON OF HOLDING, Whew!You're all set, throw on your APRON OF HOLDING, roll a natural 20, let out a battle cry and clean up!
DIY Doggie Waste Bag Dispenser
Hey, DIYers! Your pup's potty experience is gonna get a whole lot cuter after you whip up this easy-to-make doggie poop bag dispenser. When it's walk time, just clip it onto your pooch's leash and you'll both be strutting around the neighborhood in style. It's the perfect project if you need to make use of any scrap fabric, and it's also a really fun gift to give to dog-owning friends and family.Using your preferred hemming method, hem the shorter sides of your fabric. We simply rolled over 1/4-inch and topstitched.PLEASE READ before proceeding to the next step. If you don't have a sewing machine and aren't crazy about the idea of creating , we've got your back! Instead of using a button as a closure method, attach hook and loop tape or sew-on snaps in the areas where the buttonhole and button will be placed. Instead of using a buttonhole as your waste bag dispense opening, you can create one using a with an opening around 1/2 - 1 inch in diameter.Now, you'll use your water soluble pen or tailor's chalk to mark the placement of both the dispenser hole and the buttonhole–both will be created in the style of a standard buttonhole. First, fold the fabric in half widthwise and slightly crease to find the midpoint.Along the crease, make a 1-inch long mark two inches from the top and two inches from the bottom, as indicated by the light blue line in the following image. This is where your dispense hole will be.Similarly, make a second mark about 1/4 inch in from one of the side edges, and equidistant from the top and bottom edges, as indicated by the light blue line in the following image. The , as this will be your buttonhole.Now here's where having a sewing machine will make things a bit easier. You're going to create buttonholes at your marked lines or , as shown below. (For options other than buttonholes, see the tip box above, between steps 1 and 2).Insert the 2 1/2 inch piece of cotton belting into your clasp's D-ring to create a loop.If using a carabiner, you can simply pin on the belting loop without it and attach it after you've finished sewing.With the of the fabric facing up, place the looped belting with clasp along the top center of the fabric, using the center crease and dispense hole as a guide. Ensure that the open edges of the loop are aligned with the edge of the fabric. Pin it into place, as shown in the image below.Now that the belting loop is in place, fold the sides in on top of it, starting with the buttonhole side so that the hole is underneath and not visible when you're sewing it together. The two side flaps should overlap in the center by 1 inch. Now, pin it all together at both edges as shown.Here's what the pinned piece should look like from the side where the belting loop and clasp is sandwiched in between the fabric.Sew the pinned edges shut. It's a good idea to stitch over the edge with the belting , to reinforce that seam.Now, invert it right side out.Your handmade dog bag dispenser is nearly done! All it needs now is a button on the inner flap. Lift the outer flap and sew the button directly beneath the buttonhole.And that's it! Your dog waste bag dispenser is done and ready to roll. . Grab a roll of waste bags and insert it into your dispenser, feeding the first bag through the dispense hole.It's potty time!
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