Can I Use the TLC5940 LED Driver If I'm Already Using Other SPI Devices on My Arduino Mega?

Can I just include this in the standard daisy chaining and assign a new slave select? SPI is normally used as a parallel bus and requires MISO to be tri-state (disconnected when not selected). In some forums online some people seem to indicate you can't use the TLC5940 on the same SPI bus as other devices. The device does not have a chip select which gives a challenge. No direct wiring is possible but can be solved. Are there different forms of SPI? I'm quite confused, can I use the TLC5940 with other SPI devices?It is possible to connect the TLC5940 but it requires some extra logic. You can for instance block the clock signal when it is not selected. This can be done with a MOSFET or 74HC125 and a pull-low resistor. Cheers!

• Related Questions

Zigbee RGB control using Xbee

Looking at the Shiftbrite LED module page and xBee datasheet, it would seem you can do this without a microcontroller. The Shiftbrite LED module uses 4 lines (3 if enable always active) which are:Data, Clock, Latch and Enable (both input and output pins, so 8 pins in total)

This means modules can be chained together easily, so you can add more Shiftbrite LED modules later on if desired. The xBee has 8 pins which can be used as digital I/Os, and configured in "virtual wire" mode, where whatever logic level appears at the Tx input pin will be output on the corresponding Rx output pin.So, with a bit of reading to setup the xBee for virtual wire mode, you should be able to write your code as if the LED module was connected directly to the R-Pi


How to install multiple individual led strips?

I have used these inexpensive LED tape lights from with very good success.

You can cut them down to as small as 4" pieces, and use connectors to get wire leads to connect to a driver. You'll need some low-voltage wiring to go between the tape ends and the driver. You have to calculate how much wattage you are putting on each driver, but they do come in several sizes so you can potentially put a lot on a one driver.



Is it a good idea to refresh a display (8x8 LED matrix in this case) inside an interrupt handler?

Normally interrupt handlers are indeed used for short actions. The reason is that the main program blocks.However, if the main handler does not do any time critical actions, it is a lesser problem.

Make sure that the interrupt handler does not take longer than the next interrupt call. Than you get an interrupt call within an interrupt call, etc.In your case your refresh function is probably always taking the same time. You can measure it (do a test with 1000 iterations and divide the time by 1000, or 1M is you cannot measure it). And you know the refresh rate. Than you know how many percent (minus some overhead) is left for your main program.Personally I think writing 64 GPIO pins, even with shift registers should be done very quickly, but testing is better than assuming.


How to tell if a chip's heat sink can be grounded

Yes it is really unclear on the spec sheet and the app-note does not help either.Without more information or calling the manufacturer you would need the part in hand to test it. If you plan on going ahead before you get the parts, you really don't want to leave a big copper pad like that floating. Which is why it may be grounded on that schematic, but not shown on the part info, it may not be internally connected at all but just a thermal pad. If in doubt it would be better to route it out through a small cap or resistor you can short out later when you have the parts in hand. Adding the extra pin to the symbol will also make life a lot less confusing for the PCB designer later too.


Is there anyway to unlock hibernated NTFS partition?

use ntfs-3g command with remove_hiberfile option .You need to mount the partition in read-write mode and are not able to or willing to boot into Windows. so, it is not included here because it completely deletes hiberfil.sys and will cause you to lose all unsaved information in the hibernated Windows programs.

The following is a quotation from man ntfs-3g about the remove_hiberfile option that would be used to do this.remove_hiberfileUnlike in case of read-only mount, the read-write mount is denied if the NTFS volume is hibernated. One needs either to resume Windows and shutdown it properly, or use this option which will remove the Windows hibernation file. Please note, this means that the saved Windows session will be completely lost. Use this option under your own responsibility.


Dimming multiple LED panels without PWM to LEDs; modified DMX control or something else?

Is this possible, Yesis the DMX to Meanwell architecture the way to go?Use multiple Mean Well HLG-240-48A or HLG-240-48B (cheapest cost per watt)

The type A has a pot to vary the current between 50% and 100%.

Type B uses 0-10v, or a resistance to set the current. Use strings of 16 LEDs (white, blue, green) or 21 red in series (45v Vf). Connect as many of the strings in parallel as each HLG can support. Try to match forward voltages of the strings when connecting in parallel.The parallel wiring will cause some current imbalance between strings. If the forward voltages are not matched well enough you will need to add current balance circuits. The easy way is to use an LM3466 with each string. Keep the temperature down with good thermal management.


Wireless wont show up on Dell Latitude D620, I am New to LUBUNTU and never used Linux duplicate URL gave me the commands I needed in Terminal to make this work for me:sudo apt-get updatesudo apt-get install firmware-b43-installersudo apt-get remove bcmwl-kernel-sourcesudo rebootThe remove seemed to be the key I needed for my 1490 a/b/g card.CTRLShiftC works on Mint so here is what I got on my D520... (Yes I have both a D520 and a D620... not a typo)owner@Latit-D520 $ uname -a Linux Latit-D520 3.


0-24-generic #47-Ubuntu SMP Fri May 2 23:31:42 UTC 2014 i686 i686 i686 GNU/Linux owner@Latit-D520 $ lspci -vnn | grep 14e4 02:00.0 Ethernet controller 0200: Broadcom Corporation BCM4401-B0 100Base-TX 14e4:170c (rev 02) 0c:00.0 Network controller 0280: Broadcom Corporation BCM4311 802.

11a/b/g 14e4:4312 (rev 01) owner@Latit-D520 $ I then compared my model at


What rating of constant current LED driver do I need? closed

A constant voltage supply will output its rated voltage at any current up to the maximum it is built to supply. If overloaded, it should shut down. They come in standardised voltages, such as 12V or 24V.A constant current supply will deliver whatever voltage it needs to, in order to push its rated current through the LEDs. So a 1500mA supply will keep ramping up the voltage until 1500mA flows. This will be subject to a maximum voltage that the power supply can deliver, such as 30V.Selecting the wrong sort of power supply is liable to either overload the power supply or blow the LEDs.

If you're using 12V LED strips, then you need a 12V constant voltage supply, with a wattage rating high enough for the sum of the wattages of all the strips


Recessed Lighting Junction Box Cord

You are likely to have issues and I would strongly recommend replacing at least the LED driver box ("junction box"), if not the entire light.The white cable that connects to the driver box contains at least two low-voltage wires, and is secured to the grounded metal driver box by a plastic collar. Contact between the metal box and the internal wires likely caused your issue, pulling on the cable probably caused further exposure of the internal wires, and if your wire nuts aren't well-secured inside the box due to some of this punching and pulling, you could have a real mess on your hands from low voltage high voltage ground contact.

Rather than punching holes in the ceiling, try to pull the light downward out of the hole and the driver box should follow


AMD Radeon outputs only 1080i (1920x1080@30hz) on Full HD TV

You may be running into an issue with the color format.You should have a choice between YCbCr 4:4:2, YCbCr 4:4:4 and RGB (HDMI Limited/Full Range) if you look really closely under the panel settings in Catalyst Control Center.Generally TVs are guaranteed to support the Luma/Chroma (YCbCr) formats for all refresh rates but not RGB. It is the opposite story for general purpose monitors, most of them only support RGB.I would suggest you try using YCbCr 4:4:2 and see if that changes anything. I prefer Luma/Chroma for TVs personally because even when configured in the menus to use full-range RGB many TVs still clip full black/white over HDMI. You probably would never notice this unless you have your TV properly calibrated, but RGB is more trouble than it is worth for TVs


Wattage of DC device is not equal to AC closed

This is a constant current driver that regulates its output voltage in order to generate the specified current.30V is the maximum that your driver can output in order to drive 700mA through the LEDs. In practice, it will usually output a lower voltage depending on what sort of LEDs you have connected.

However, 5.

6W would suggest an output voltage of just 8V, which is well short of what you'd expect to see across ten LEDs wired in series, so I suspect that either your device is not measuring what you think it is or your LEDs are not wired in series.Use your multimeter to measure the output voltage across the LEDs and see what you get. Assuming you are still getting 700mA through the LEDs the actual power will be 0.

7 times the actual voltage.


What does this WIFI sound mean?

There are two sounds audible, both are two tones. One is a bee-boop, and the other is a boo-beep.The "bee-boop" (first sound) indicates the discovery of a new device and the attempt to initialize it. That sound is heard any time a hot-pluggable device is added to the system or enabled. You will hear it if you, for example, connect a USB flash drive.The "boo-beep" indicate the loss of a hot-pluggable device. You will hear that sound if you remove a USB flash drive.As for explaining your issue, it seems that the computer tries to initialize the device and then the device disconnects. This could be caused by any number of things including a defective device, a defective port, an incorrect driver, or a port with insufficient power to run the device.


Thoughts on this 3-way wiring job

Oz wiring looks kinda weird to folk in the top half of the planet.This seems to be an Oz equivalent of what Brits would call 2-way switches and what Americans would call 3-way switchesThe "loop" connector is presumably not wired to the switch but is a provided as a convenience to save having a floating connector-block (or wire-nut).In your case it looks like the three blacks shown at right in the diagram above have, in your photo, been connected using a "loop" terminal rather than by using a floating connector block.

It isn't clear from your photos if the rest of the your wiring's connections are consistent with this diagram.It might be that the triple reds and triple blacks in your first photo are where some parallel (separately switched) lights branch off

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